19. Seattle, USA

date: 01 Sep '09
week: 12 of 16
day: 83 of 113
weather:Sunny, cool
country: USA
nearest town: Seattle

A 10 hour flight later and we are in Seattle, USA. 

This has nothing to do with Seattle (actually we stayed in the 

unexciting Seatac - halfway between Seattle and Tacoma) or riding a bike. But on the way to the mall (as you do once you arrive in America) I noticed that AC/DC were in concert at the local stadium. AC/DC tickets in Australia are normally  sold out within minutes of going on sale, however I picked up three tickets for that night! Great concert, but the boys are getting on a bit!

18. South Korea - end of the Asian leg

date: 29 Aug '09
week: 12 of 16
day: 80 of 113
weather: Warm, sunny & humid
country: South Korea (the non-scary one)
nearest town: Seoul
distance traveled: +19,000km, +12,000 miles

An 18 hour trip on the Dong Chun ferry from Vladivostok brought us to South Korea and normality. Perfect tarmac roads signs in English (and Korean), people who smile and who have heard of customer service :), food is good too. (I didn't write much about Russia at the time but the Russian food is often dull and as a customer in shops, cafes and hotels you feel you are an inconvenience to the person serving you).

The Korean countryside is very pleasant and even though there is often a mountain backdrop it seems as if the place is one big, regularly attended to, garden. The country is ordered and despite the language barrier, not at all intimidating. The rides around Korea to Seoul have been more like Sunday afternoon rides back home compared to the previous challenges of Siberia and Mongolia.

Seoul marks the end of our ride from the West of Europe to the East of Asia

Yesterday the bikes, panniers and riding gear were packaged into crates for America, a surprisingly painless 2 hour process. Tomorrow I catch a 10.5 hour Air Korea flight to Seattle to arrive 6 hours before I depart to start the beginning of the final stage of the trip across North America to New York.

17. Trans-Siberian Highway

date: 18 Aug '09
week: 10 of 16
day: 69 of 113
weather: Rain
country: Russia
nearest town: Vladivostok

Perhaps the most demanding part of the trip has been the ride in Siberia from Ulan Ude to Vladivostok, a distance of approx. 4,000km (2,500 miles) much of which is a wilderness of silver birch trees and mosquitoes (unfortunate as it was camping all the way until Vladivostok).

The highway runs over the top of China and then 'round the top right hand corner to Vladivostok. The initial 3 days of the 6 day journey were across mostly unmade roads with plenty of other vehicles, earth moving & road laying equipment and of course lots of dust. Several of the riders had some close calls particularly on the freshly laid wet tarmac, I lost the back wheel at one point but managed to stay upright another wasn't so lucky and slid down the road covering herself and bike in the wet tar.

The hardest part of the trip (these are the parts you are supposed to look back on as the best!!) was dealing with the mosquitoes. As soon as we found a camp site they would descend, wouldn't leave you alone until you got into your tent and at one particularly boggy camp site they just buzzed all night between the tent's inner and flysheet, waiting for you to leave in the morning, or to torment you while trying to answer the call of nature during the night.

Having had enough of the camping two of us decided to combine the last 750km (450 miles), initially planned as two days riding, into one final push to get to Vladivostok and a hotel. The road was mostly good tarmac, but it took 11.5 hours through heavy traffic and constant rain to get to the hotel, well worth it to miss a night of camping with mosquitoes though, plus we got the last available room at the hotel.

16. Over Halfway and Mongolia Completed

date: 12 Aug '09
week: 9 of 16
day: 63 of 113
weather: Hot, sunny
country: Russia (Siberia)
nearest town: Ulan Ude
distance traveled: 15,840km, 9,900 miles

Since Bishkek in Kyrgyzstan where I made the last post we have travelled through Kazakhstan, Russia briefly and then across Mongolia and back into Russia (Siberia). Mongolia was bar far the toughest country of the trip. From entering the gate into Mongolia from the Russian border there were no roads, just dirt tracks, this remained the case for the next 6 days of our trip.

On the 3rd day in Mongolia I was going well with the off road dirt, rocks and shallow sand. Then I hit some deep sand, the front wheel went sharply to the left as I slowed down (wrong thing to do in sand) I corrected to the right and repeated left and right and finally fell off. Bike sliding through the sand and me flat on my back hearing a crack as I landed! Next two days spent in the 4x4 with a painful rib, think it was dislocated, still painful when I laugh, cough and sneeze; but spirits are high and the 4,000km Trans-Siberian highway is next.

15. Riding the M41 to Bishkek

date: 21 Jul '09
week: 6 of 16
day: 41 of 113
weather: Hot and sunny again :)
country: Kyrgyzstan
nearest town: Bishkek
latt, long: N 42 51.865; E 74 37.193

We left Osh for the Bishkek unlike most of the group by road, they took the more adventurous off-road route. Despite choosing the less demanding option (I like to think of it as risk management to ensure I get to NYC), it was the most fantastic ride I have ever had.

For a toll of $5 we saw breathtaking scenery of mountains, the

beautiful Lake Toktogul and deep green covered hills and sped along beautifully maintained twisting roads, which for the second day followed a fast flowing river, it was just fantastic.

As we took the faster route we also had an extra day at the hotel in Bishkek - bonus. Today I am nursing a slight hangover.

14. Samerkand, Uzbekistan.

date: 15 Jul '09
week: 5 of 16
day: 35 of 113
weather: Hot and Sunny
country: Uzbekistan
nearest town: Samarkand
latt, long:N 39 38 966; E 66 58 000
distance traveled: approx. 6,500 miles

Since the last post we have travelled through Azerbaijan, across the Caspian Sea (a night mare boat journey of 13 hours crossing and 55 waiting to enter the port).

The crazy country of Turkmenistan (police state) the capital Ashgabat has many marble and gold buildings with no apparent use. The former leader 'Turkman the Great' died quite a while
back and now the country is run by his dentist! Coincidentally? many of the residents have gold teeth.

Following Turkmenistan a reasonable sense of normality has returned in Uzbekistan - nice people and the best fresh baked bread so far; although few members of the trip have escaped loosened bowel movements.

The picture opposite is of a 'gas crater' (diameter about the length of a football pitch) in the Karakum Desert in Turkmenistan. The are various stories about how it was created, the one I was told by our guide (all foreigners must be accompanied by a guide in Turkmenistan) is as follows.

During their occupation of Turkmenistan the Russians drilled for gas in the desert, one day at this site there was a big explosion all that was left was a crater of burning gas. No one seems to know how many people died or what exactly happened, even the local people did not know about the crater until the early nineties after Russians left. The gas has been burning for at least 20 years perhaps even since the 1950's.

Another couple of days riding in this country and then it is on to Kyrgyzstan and more off-road riding building up to the big one - Mongolia.

13. Tbilisi, Georgia

date: 07 Jul '09
week: 4 of 16
day: 23 of 113
weather: Hot and Sunny
country: Georgia
nearest town: Tbilisi
latt, long:
distance traveled: km, miles, ( %)

Resting in Tbilisi and awaiting for the Azerbijian visas to come through, hopefully by lunch time. Turkey as I hoped was a fantastic place to travel through. The scenery was fantastic and the ancient town of Goreme was the highlight. Hundreds of houses in caves, including our hotel room. I will add photos when I get the time and technology together.

Georgia has the worst drivers so far, on the 2 lane 'motorway' on the way in cars overtake overtaking cars in both directions, so before the critical moment 3 lanes of traffic are approaching each other in both directions, and all withyout indicatosr! I hold back on the bike and get eady for the hard shoulder. Some how I don't think the driving will improve much in Azerbijian!

We are now into the 4th week of the trip, by the end of which we will be a third of the way in time to the end of our Asian route (Korea), we will have covered more than a third in distance, but this rate will slow down when we start Mongolia.

Yet another breakfast of cheese bread and salami awaits.

12. Rest ın Istanbul before Asıa

date: 26 Jun '09
week: 3 of 16
day: 16 of 113
weather:Hot and Dry
country:Turkey
nearest town:Istanbul
latt, long:xx / yy
distance traveled: km, miles, ( %)

Merhaba!

Well my second post sınce startıng the trıp, funny how the abılıty to sıt at a computer and start typıng dısappears when out of the usual routıne.

I am currently sıttıng ın a hotel lobby ın the old part of Istanbul. The Blue Mosque ıs a short walk away and ıs along wıth the Bospherous vısıble from the terrace bar on the 5th floor.

Istanbul, as I had hoped ıs a great place. The locals are frıendly

wıth a good sense of humour. Walkıng around town yesterday wıth a fellow bıker we vısıted the Spıce Market, the Grand Bazaar a couple of cafes.

Before ınduldgıng ın an afternoon nap to escape the heat we went to a Turkısh barbars for full shave and haır cut, the barber (who spoke no Englısh) also ıncluded neck massage and ıf requıred nose and ear haır removal (done wıth a cottonwool ball soaked ın alcohol and lıt) the male equıvalent of a manıcure perhaps.

A late 13:00 start thıs afternoon, we wıll head East (of course!) across Turkey towards our next country Azerbıjan. Iran was the orıgınal destınatıon, but due to the polıtıcal unrest we wıll cross the Caspıan Sea by ferry vıa Azerbıjan and Georgıa. We then resume the orıgınal route through Turkmenıstan. The countrıes are startıng to get more unusual now!

Tıme for breakfast......

11. Rest Day In Prague

date: 16 Jun '09
week: 1 of 16
day: 6 of 113
weather: hot and sunny
country: Czech Republic
nearest town: Prague
latt, long: **, **
distance traveled: **km, **miles

Enjoying our first rest day in Prague since the trip began.

In the past 5 days have travelled from UK through France, Belgium, Switzerland, Lichenstein, Austria, Germany and The Czech Republic.

Have fallen off once going up a Swiss pass, no damage done and hairpin turns have improved immeasurably.

Planning a second night out in Prague of a few beers and some traditional food - expect cabbage, pork and dumplings.

-- this post has taken ages to write in the hotel reception, the y and z are the opposite waz around on cyech kezboards and I can§t get the apostrophes or exclamation marks to work.

10 England: Training finished and 1 week to go.

I am now in England.

Last week I had the first ride on my trip ready F800 GS motorbike combined with my first off-road experience. Quite a reality check, leaving me feeling pretty daunted about the trip ahead. The F800 was a handful off-road, controlling it in the mud was the most challenging, riding up and down inclines of around 45 degrees also required plenty of concentration and 'positive conviction'.

The bike is now fitted with Metal Mule panniers, engine bash plate and Barkbuster handlebar guards, this was fortunate as I had a couple of 'offs' during the off-road training, I have a large purple bruise on my elbow.

At the weekend we completed more training - navigation, I will be using a Garmin 60CSx GPS; first aid and some basic bike maintenance and tyre changing.

The team of 16 are now all in their final stages of preparation; we have 13 riders, 1 mechanic, 1 medic and a tour guide. Already there seems to be a good vibe between us, developed during the training days and evening beers. With the aches and bruises subsiding from the off-road training and having put more miles on the bike I am feeling confident about the adventure ahead.

One week and a day and we will be leaving The Ace Cafe in London.