Thursday, October 1, 2009

26. WE MADE IT! - New York City

date: 1 Oct '09week: 16 of 16
day: 113 of 113
weather: Overcast, 10 deg C
country: USA
nearest town: New York City, NY
distance traveled: 32,629 km, 20,275 miles



We made it! Riders and bikes under the Brooklyn Bridge, New York City.

The 'Greecers' at the final waypoint! Steve, Simon, Del & Me

Sunday, September 27, 2009

25. Almost there!

date: 27 Sep '09
week: 16 of 16
day: 109 of 113
weather: Windy!
country: USA
nearest town: Chicago
latt, long:
distance traveled: +30,000 km, +19,000 miles

After 4 months of traveling we are almost there, seeing the Chicago skyline was like a dress rehearsal for the final arrival in New York City.

Our 3 nights in Chicago were taken very easy with a party, sightseeing, restaurants and bars.

View from the top of the John Hancock building on the side of Lake Michigan.



Other views along the Chicago River...



Thursday, September 24, 2009

24. Montana, Wyoming & South Dakota

date: 24th Sep '09
week: 16 of 16
day: 106 of 113
weather: Cool, sunny, some showers
country: USA
nearest town: Chamberlaine, South Dakota
distance traveled: +30,000 km, +18,500 miles

Wild West country! Yesterday we passed through the site of Custer's last stand at the Battle of the Little Bighorn, North Cheyenne and Sioux country.


If you look closely you can see Injuns amassing on the horizon.






The Presidents in South Dakota....

Saturday, September 19, 2009

23. Jasper National Park - Alberta, Canada

date: 19 Sep '09
week: 15 of 16
day: 100!of 113
weather: Cold and sunny
country: Canada
nearest town: Jasper

The Jasper National Park, one of the most scenic rides in the world......






The challenges of Mongolia and Siberia are now distant memories.



Thursday, September 17, 2009

22.Back down to Yukon and British Columbia

date: 17 Sep '09
week: 15 of 16
day: 99 of 113
weather:Cool and Sunny
country: Canada
nearest town: Dawson Creek, British Columbia

Fantastic scenery and empty roads in the Yukon Territory






A little busier in British Columbia

Thursday, September 10, 2009

21. Alaska

date: 10 Sep '09
week: 14 of 16
day: 92 of 113
weather: Cool, blue skies
country: USA
nearest town: Anchorage
distance traveled: +22,000 km, + 14,000 miles

Yesterday was a long ride of 440 miles (700 km) from Beaver Creek, Canada (on the border with the US) to Anchorage in Alaska. But, the border crossing only took approx. 10 minutes and even included jokes with the official (Turkmenistan included no jokes and took 8 hours).


After an initial icy start (we took our time over breakfast to let things warm up a bit) we had a beautifully clear day, with fantastic smooth twisting roads and amazing scenery. That was pretty much it - great roads and scenery, oh yes and many beers that night in Anchorage.


These three pictures were all taken from the same spot, I stopped the bike on the side of the road and took them - across the road, in front and behind me, didn't even get off the bike.



Wednesday, September 9, 2009

20. Canada

date: 9 Sep '09
week: 13 of 16
day: of 113
weather: Cool, rainy
country: Canada
nearest town: Beaver Creek

A very civilised breakfast on board the Inside Passage Ferry, going North from Vancouver Island, and to think a couple of weeks before we had been sleeping on the side of the mosquito ridden Trans-Siberian Highway.


The roads and scenery through Canada were fantastic, this is on the way to Beaver Creek, our last stop in Canada before crossing back into Alaska. 

Tuesday, September 1, 2009

19. Seattle, USA

date: 01 Sep '09
week: 12 of 16
day: 83 of 113
weather:Sunny, cool
country: USA
nearest town: Seattle

A 10 hour flight later and we are in Seattle, USA. 

This has nothing to do with Seattle (actually we stayed in the 
unexciting Seatac - halfway between Seattle and Tacoma) or riding a bike. But on the way to the mall (as you do once you arrive in America) I noticed that AC/DC were in concert at the local stadium. AC/DC tickets in Australia are normally  sold out within minutes of going on sale, however I picked up three tickets for that night! Great concert, but the boys are getting on a bit!

Saturday, August 29, 2009

18. South Korea - end of the Asian leg

date: 29 Aug '09
week: 12 of 16
day: 80 of 113
weather: Warm, sunny & humid
country: South Korea (the non-scary one)
nearest town: Seoul
distance traveled: +19,000km, +12,000 miles

An 18 hour trip on the Dong Chun ferry from Vladivostok brought us to South Korea and normality. Perfect tarmac roads signs in English (and Korean), people who smile and who have heard of customer service :), food is good too. (I didn't write much about Russia at the time but the Russian food is often dull and as a customer in shops, cafes and hotels you feel you are an inconvenience to the person serving you).

The Korean countryside is very pleasant and even though there is often a mountain backdrop it seems as if the place is one big, regularly attended to, garden. The country is ordered and despite the language barrier, not at all intimidating. The rides around Korea to Seoul have been more like Sunday afternoon rides back home compared to the previous challenges of Siberia and Mongolia.

Seoul marks the end of our ride from the West of Europe to the East of Asia

Yesterday the bikes, panniers and riding gear were packaged into crates for America, a surprisingly painless 2 hour process. Tomorrow I catch a 10.5 hour Air Korea flight to Seattle to arrive 6 hours before I depart to start the beginning of the final stage of the trip across North America to New York.

Tuesday, August 18, 2009

17. Trans-Siberian Highway

date: 18 Aug '09
week: 10 of 16
day: 69 of 113
weather: Rain
country: Russia
nearest town: Vladivostok

Perhaps the most demanding part of the trip has been the ride in Siberia from Ulan Ude to Vladivostok, a distance of approx. 4,000km (2,500 miles) much of which is a wilderness of silver birch trees and mosquitoes (unfortunate as it was camping all the way until Vladivostok).

The highway runs over the top of China and then 'round the top right hand corner to Vladivostok. The initial 3 days of the 6 day journey were across mostly unmade roads with plenty of other vehicles, earth moving & road laying equipment and of course lots of dust. Several of the riders had some close calls particularly on the freshly laid wet tarmac, I lost the back wheel at one point but managed to stay upright another wasn't so lucky and slid down the road covering herself and bike in the wet tar.

The hardest part of the trip (these are the parts you are supposed to look back on as the best!!) was dealing with the mosquitoes. As soon as we found a camp site they would descend, wouldn't leave you alone until you got into your tent and at one particularly boggy camp site they just buzzed all night between the tent's inner and flysheet, waiting for you to leave in the morning, or to torment you while trying to answer the call of nature during the night.

Having had enough of the camping two of us decided to combine the last 750km (450 miles), initially planned as two days riding, into one final push to get to Vladivostok and a hotel. The road was mostly good tarmac, but it took 11.5 hours through heavy traffic and constant rain to get to the hotel, well worth it to miss a night of camping with mosquitoes though, plus we got the last available room at the hotel.

Wednesday, August 12, 2009

16. Over Halfway and Mongolia Completed

date: 12 Aug '09
week: 9 of 16
day: 63 of 113
weather: Hot, sunny
country: Russia (Siberia)
nearest town: Ulan Ude
distance traveled: 15,840km, 9,900 miles

Since Bishkek in Kyrgyzstan where I made the last post we have travelled through Kazakhstan, Russia briefly and then across Mongolia and back into Russia (Siberia). Mongolia was bar far the toughest country of the trip. From entering the gate into Mongolia from the Russian border there were no roads, just dirt tracks, this remained the case for the next 6 days of our trip.

On the 3rd day in Mongolia I was going well with the off road dirt, rocks and shallow sand. Then I hit some deep sand, the front wheel went sharply to the left as I slowed down (wrong thing to do in sand) I corrected to the right and repeated left and right and finally fell off. Bike sliding through the sand and me flat on my back hearing a crack as I landed! Next two days spent in the 4x4 with a painful rib, think it was dislocated, still painful when I laugh, cough and sneeze; but spirits are high and the 4,000km Trans-Siberian highway is next.

Tuesday, July 21, 2009

15. Riding the M41 to Bishkek

date: 21 Jul '09
week: 6 of 16
day: 41 of 113
weather: Hot and sunny again :)
country: Kyrgyzstan
nearest town: Bishkek
latt, long: N 42 51.865; E 74 37.193


We left Osh for the Bishkek unlike most of the group by road, they took the more adventurous off-road route. Despite choosing the less demanding option (I like to think of it as risk management to ensure I get to NYC), it was the most fantastic ride I have ever had.

For a toll of $5 we saw breathtaking scenery of mountains, the
beautiful Lake Toktogul and deep green covered hills and sped along beautifully maintained twisting roads, which for the second day followed a fast flowing river, it was just fantastic.

As we took the faster route we also had an extra day at the hotel in Bishkek - bonus. Today I am nursing a slight hangover.

Wednesday, July 15, 2009

14. Samerkand, Uzbekistan.

date: 15 Jul '09
week: 5 of 16
day: 35 of 113
weather: Hot and Sunny
country: Uzbekistan
nearest town:
Samarkand
latt, long:N 39 38 966; E 66 58 000
distance traveled: approx. 6,500 miles


Since the last post we have travelled through Azerbaijan, across the Caspian Sea (a night mare boat journey of 13 hours crossing and 55 waiting to enter the port).

The crazy country of Turkmenistan (police state) the capital Ashgabat has many marble and gold buildings with no apparent use. The former leader 'Turkman the Great' died quite a while
back and now the country is run by his dentist! Coincidentally? many of the residents have gold teeth.

Following Turkmenistan a reasonable sense of normality has returned in Uzbekistan - nice people and the best fresh baked bread so far; although few members of the trip have escaped loosened bowel movements.

The picture opposite is of a 'gas crater' (diameter about the length of a football pitch) in the Karakum Desert in Turkmenistan. The are various stories about how it was created, the one I was told by our guide (all foreigners must be accompanied by a guide in Turkmenistan) is as follows.

During their occupation of Turkmenistan the Russians drilled for gas in the desert, one day at this site there was a big explosion all that was left was a crater of burning gas. No one seems to know how many people died or what exactly happened, even the local people did not know about the crater until the early nineties after Russians left. The gas has been burning for at least 20 years perhaps even since the 1950's.

Another couple of days riding in this country and then it is on to Kyrgyzstan and more off-road riding building up to the big one - Mongolia.

Friday, July 3, 2009

13. Tbilisi, Georgia

date: 07 Jul '09
week: 4 of 16
day: 23 of 113
weather: Hot and Sunny
country: Georgia
nearest town: Tbilisi
latt, long:
distance traveled: km, miles, ( %)

Resting in Tbilisi and awaiting for the Azerbijian visas to come through, hopefully by lunch time. Turkey as I hoped was a fantastic place to travel through. The scenery was fantastic and the ancient town of Goreme was the highlight. Hundreds of houses in caves, including our hotel room. I will add photos when I get the time and technology together.

Georgia has the worst drivers so far, on the 2 lane 'motorway' on the way in cars overtake overtaking cars in both directions, so before the critical moment 3 lanes of traffic are approaching each other in both directions, and all withyout indicatosr! I hold back on the bike and get eady for the hard shoulder. Some how I don't think the driving will improve much in Azerbijian!

We are now into the 4th week of the trip, by the end of which we will be a third of the way in time to the end of our Asian route (Korea), we will have covered more than a third in distance, but this rate will slow down when we start Mongolia.

Yet another breakfast of cheese bread and salami awaits.

Friday, June 26, 2009

12. Rest ın Istanbul before Asıa

date: 26 Jun '09
week: 3 of 16
day: 16 of 113
weather:Hot and Dry
country:Turkey
nearest town:Istanbul
latt, long:xx / yy
distance traveled: km, miles, ( %)


Merhaba!

Well my second post sınce startıng the trıp, funny how the abılıty to sıt at a computer and start typıng dısappears when out of the usual routıne.

I am currently sıttıng ın a hotel lobby ın the old part of Istanbul. The Blue Mosque ıs a short walk away and ıs along wıth the Bospherous vısıble from the terrace bar on the 5th floor.

Istanbul, as I had hoped ıs a great place. The locals are frıendly
wıth a good sense of humour. Walkıng around town yesterday wıth a fellow bıker we vısıted the Spıce Market, the Grand Bazaar a couple of cafes.

Before ınduldgıng ın an afternoon nap to escape the heat we went to a Turkısh barbars for full shave and haır cut, the barber (who spoke no Englısh) also ıncluded neck massage and ıf requıred nose and ear haır removal (done wıth a cottonwool ball soaked ın alcohol and lıt) the male equıvalent of a manıcure perhaps.

A late 13:00 start thıs afternoon, we wıll head East (of course!) across Turkey towards our next country Azerbıjan. Iran was the orıgınal destınatıon, but due to the polıtıcal unrest we wıll cross the Caspıan Sea by ferry vıa Azerbıjan and Georgıa. We then resume the orıgınal route through Turkmenıstan. The countrıes are startıng to get more unusual now!

Tıme for breakfast......

Tuesday, June 16, 2009

11. Rest Day In Prague

date: 16 Jun '09
week: 1 of 16
day: 6 of 113
weather: hot and sunny
country: Czech Republic
nearest town: Prague
latt, long: **, **
distance traveled: **km, **miles

Enjoying our first rest day in Prague since the trip began.

In the past 5 days have travelled from UK through France, Belgium, Switzerland, Lichenstein, Austria, Germany and The Czech Republic.

Have fallen off once going up a Swiss pass, no damage done and hairpin turns have improved immeasurably.

Planning a second night out in Prague of a few beers and some traditional food - expect cabbage, pork and dumplings.

-- this post has taken ages to write in the hotel reception, the y and z are the opposite waz around on cyech kezboards and I can§t get the apostrophes or exclamation marks to work.

Wednesday, June 3, 2009

10 England: Training finished and 1 week to go.

I am now in England.

Last week I had the first ride on my trip ready F800 GS motorbike combined with my first off-road experience. Quite a reality check, leaving me feeling pretty daunted about the trip ahead. The F800 was a handful off-road, controlling it in the mud was the most challenging, riding up and down inclines of around 45 degrees also required plenty of concentration and 'positive conviction'.

The bike is now fitted with Metal Mule panniers, engine bash plate and Barkbuster handlebar guards, this was fortunate as I had a couple of 'offs' during the off-road training, I have a large purple bruise on my elbow.

At the weekend we completed more training - navigation, I will be using a Garmin 60CSx GPS; first aid and some basic bike maintenance and tyre changing.

The team of 16 are now all in their final stages of preparation; we have 13 riders, 1 mechanic, 1 medic and a tour guide. Already there seems to be a good vibe between us, developed during the training days and evening beers. With the aches and bruises subsiding from the off-road training and having put more miles on the bike I am feeling confident about the adventure ahead.

One week and a day and we will be leaving The Ace Cafe in London.

Thursday, May 14, 2009

9. Last minute run up the Old Pacific Highway

Took a last minute run up the Old Pacific Highway in Sydney last week. The weather was chilly and foggy at first but cleared and warmed up by lunchtime. In addition to brushing up on my cornering skills it was a good chance to have a final test of all the riding gear I will be taking on the 20,000 km trip.

Thankfully nothing rubbed, slipped, annoyed or steamed up. The helmet's ventilation worked well, keeping out the cold air early on and after adjustment allowing plenty of cool breeze in. Although the enduro jacket and pants look a bit over the top in Sydney they felt comfortable and protective.

The Rallye GS2 boots however, gave me some problems as they are too big for my BMW R850R's non-adjustable gear lever. I had already experienced this riding around town, but it became more annoying along the trip. The biggest challenge was changing from 1st to 2nd, which was something like 1st, neutral, neutral, neutral, 2nd. I had to shift with the inside edge of the boot against the end of the lever. This won't be a problem on the trip however as the BMW F800GS's gear lever is fully adjustable.

A meat pie and mug of coffee at the Pie In The Sky cafe on the way back completed the morning.

Thursday, April 30, 2009

8. Almost time to leave Australia for London.

Just three weeks from today I will be flying to the UK for the start of the trip.

Even though I have now sorted out insurances, accommodation, off-road training, first-aid course, navigation course, my NRMA international driving permit, new sleeping bag, new gloves and bought a Darth Vader like Arai XD-3 helmet. It doesn't quite seem real, am I really about to ride 'round the world on a motorbike?

Well, that's not quite it, the thing is, I just don't feel scared enough! Maybe I have confused watching Charlie and Ewan a couple of times on DVD with actually doing the ride myself. Maybe the 18 months since I decided to do this have allowed my fears to subside, certainly my scary-riding-related-scenario dreams have almost disappeared now.

In fact the past few weeks I have spent a bit of time thinking about what I will do when I return home again. For the past 3 years I have worked as an independent IT (SAP) consultant. Not sure if going back to that when I return will very appealing and direct employment probably less so. Perhaps I will finally start a business to make my millions, but of course plenty of time to think about this during the ride :).

So, all that remains to do in Oz now is find the most efficient socket adapter for 20 countries, arrange a few farewell drinks and get packed.

> updated Google map of the route here

Sunday, March 22, 2009

7. Test Ride BMW F800GS

I recently I took a short test ride around Sydney on the BWM F 800 GS, the bike I will ride to New York.

Mostly I wanted to check out how comfortable it was and decide if I would choose the low or standard seat option (my inside leg is 31"). The bike was great to ride, light and easy to manoeuvre (thanks mum!). The engine (798cc parallel twin) was smooth and quick to pick up speed, quite different to my current bike, a BMW R850R which has a 'rougher' boxer engine (horizontally apposed flat twin). The first time I checked the speedo I was doing 100 in a 60 zone.

The standard seat height was no problem, comfortable to ride and able to get one foot down at a stop. Even though it is quite high at 780mm the narrow seat allows your legs to go straight down to the ground rather than out and down as would be the case with a wider saddle.

The lower seat option is 750mm, but the reduction is achieved entirely by removing some seat padding. Considering the trip ahead those 30mm are going to count for a lot!

Wednesday, March 4, 2009

6. It's all a far cry from riding a motorbike!..

During the trip from London to New York there will 8 countries that require a visa to enter.

So that means 8 visa application forms need to be completed (and 3 of those in duplicate). The translations on the forms can be quite a challenge. But after printing, filling out, signing and sticking on photos the admin is done, it's like being at work!

Here's the list with notes and links to forms & embassies for anyone who is interested:

Turkmenistan: 3 pages, 31 questions [print hard copy, fill out, sign & stick on photo] x 2 copies
The Republic of Uzbekistan: 2 pages, 16 question [print hard copy, fill out, sign & stick on photo] x 2 copies
The Russian Federation: 1 page, 21 questions [enter on-line, print, sign & stick on photo]
Mongolia: 2 pages, 49 questions [enter on-line, print, sign & stick on photo]
Kyrgyz Republic: 1 page, 12 questions [enter on-line, print, sign & stick on photo]
The Republic of Kazakhstan: 2 pages, 27 question [print hard copy, fill out, sign & stick on photo]
Islamic Republic of Iran: 2 pages, 35 questions [print hard copy, fill out, sign & stick on photo] x 2 copies
USA: not required - visa waiver available online (so I lied, it was only 7 visas)

Finally got them done, what a day. It's all a far cry from riding a motorbike!

Saturday, February 14, 2009

5. Motorbike pants that fit

I wrote in my last blog (4. Riding Gear) that I have had difficulty finding a pair of bike pants that fit. Thankfully, I have now solved the problem and have just bought a pair of BMW Rallye 2 Pro pants, which nicely match my jacket :).

The pants or my physique were not the problem, it was (and it seems ridiculous now) my
assumption that it is just like buying a pair of regular pants. Thanks to the sales assistant, I am now a lot wiser.

Pant length
I was going about it all wrong, f
irstly the bulk of the time I am going to be in a sitting position so therefore the pants need to be much longer to accommodate bent legs. Secondly, I tried them on with my boots (motorcross style BMW Rallye GS2) this time, what a good idea! The boots and pants are designed to work together, the pants being worn on the inside the boots. This has the great advantage of being able to tuck the bottom of the knee pads, which extend to mid shin, into the top of the boots. The knee pads are then held in place under the large velco tab of the boots. The secured knee pads which are fairly large and go around the sides of the knees are now nicely positioned to protect the knees whether sitting down, or standing up.

Loose Fit
It is also necessary for the pants to be a bit baggy from the thigh up to be comfortable. Firstly, enough room in the crotch area prevents squashing! Secondly the air vents on the top of the pants work much better when the material is a bit gathered and has folds in it. If the material was tighter and flush to the leg then much less air would pass into the vents and keep you cool.

So there you go - a pair of bike pants that fit. Also as the Rallye 2 Pro's come with thermal/waterproof gortex inners and armour, no need for me to buy seperate waterproofs or knee protectors.

Saturday, February 7, 2009

4. Riding gear

Just over 16 weeks left before I start the trip now, the same length of time as the trip itself.

I have a large to do list which I put together a few months ago, most of the tasks however are still outstanding as I kept putting them off until nearer the time, there's not much of that left now!

I've pretty much worked out what riding gear I will use on the trip, here's the main stuff:

Helmet
Arai XD-3

Jacket
I'm taking the BMW Rallye 2 Pro, it looks great and is very comfortable.

All the pads and protectors (back, shoulders & elbows) stay in the right places and they're soft and flexible I hardly notice them. It's the first bike jacket I've had that I don't have to periodically fiddle with to get the pads to sit in the right place and not dig in somewhere, on this jacket they just fit.

It has lots of vents and a detachable waterproof and fleece inner. I've used it in Sydney on fairly hot days with the fleece in and all the vents open and it's not too hot. Plenty of big pockets, some with zips and bigger ones with easy access pop studs. It also has an integrated removable bum bag for keeping valuables in when walking around without the jacket.

I bought it at a BMW dealer in Berlin on a trip last year for 577 Euros (approx. US$ 750), went with the black/grey option, it also comes in blue/grey.

Pants
I tried the BMW Rallye 2 Pro pants that go with the jacket above, but I guess I am not built like your average German as all the sizes I tried either didn't fit around the waist or the knee protectors were right down by my shins! So currently undecided on the pants. Also not sure whether to get an all in one solution with waterproof, thermal and built in protection like the Rallye 2 Pro or buy a combination of riding pants, waterproofs and separate knee protectors.

[update: see next post '5. Motorbike pants that fit']


Boots
BMW Rallye GS2

Saturday, January 31, 2009

3. The BMW F800GS

At home I ride a BMW R850R, great for riding around Sydney but no good for the off-road adventures ahead.

My original choice was the R1200GS, the all conquering giant from BMW. But after doing some research decided that its weight will cause real problems firstly bogging down in mud and secondly having to lift it off the ground, which on the pot-holed 'roads' of Mongolia will be frequent and miserable.

So the next obvious choice at the time was the R1200GS's smaller brother the BMW F650GS, although a proven bike for this kind of trip it still seemed a bit of a compromise from the power of the 1200.

However, last year a new bike from BMW arrived on the scene - the F800GS. Lighter than the R1200GS, yet more powerful than the F650GS, problem solved! Here is a picture of a one without any mud on it.

F800GS
Engine:
Water-cooled, 2-cyl, 4-stroke, 4 valves per cyl, 2 ohd cams.
Capacity:
798 cc.
Power: 63 kW (85 hp) at 7,500 rpm
Torque: 83 Nm at 5,750 rpm

Max speed:
Over 200 km/h
Dry weight:
185 kg

trivia: "GS" is short for Gelände/Straße meaning Off-road/On-road

Saturday, January 24, 2009

2. 20 countries, 16 weeks & 20,000 miles

The trip to New York will pass through 20 countries, take 16 weeks and cover approximately 20,000 miles, here is a breakdown by week:

Week 1 - England, France, Belgium, Germany, Czech Republic
Week 2 - Slovakia, Hungary, Romania, Bulgaria, Turkey
Week 3 - Turkey
Week 4 - Iran, Turkmenistan
Week 5 - Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan
Week 6 - Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan
Week 7 - Kazakhstan, Russia
Week 8 - Russia, Mongolia
Week 9 - Mongolia, Russia
Week 10 - Russia
Week 11 - Russia, South Korea
Week 12 - South Korea, Shipping, Canada
Week 13 - Canada
Week 14 - USA (Alaska), Canada
Week 15 - Canada
Week 16 - USA

Click to see route in Google Maps

Saturday, January 17, 2009

1. If Ewan McGregor can do it....

Hi, my name is Ian McCarthy, an accountant from the UK living in Sydney, Australia.

On Thursday June 11th 2009 I will leave London, with 13 other riders, traveling on motorbikes across Europe, Asia and North America to hopefully arrive 113 days and 20,000 miles later in New York.

This is the blog about that trip.




If Ewan McGregor can do it, why not.......